
We just love puppies and kittens here at Kelperland! It is one of the best parts about working in a vet practice when young animals get brought into us for the first time – lots of cuddles and fuss are very much the order of the day!
It can be a daunting time when you collect your new pet and there is so much information out there it can all be a bit over whelming. So hopefully the following will help.
The info provided on this page was last updated Dec 2025.
Puppies
Vaccinations
Puppies require their vaccinations at 8 and 12 weeks old. Vaccines are vital to protect our puppies from fatal diseases. The vaccines we use are very safe and we have never encountered any problems with them. Vaccination is a whole topic in itself; you can find more information on our website if you want to know more.
Microchipping
All puppies should now be microchipped by law at 8 weeks old, so the breeder should have done this for you and given you some paperwork to prove it. You now need to make sure the puppy is registered to your name and address.
Worming
Worming is required at 8, 10 and 12 weeks old and then at 4, 5 and 6 months old. As your puppy grows up he/she will grow at an unpredictable rate so we recommend weighing them at each of these milestones (there is no extra cost for this, it also provides a good opportunity to get them into the practice and get used to it, a good chance for our staff to play with puppies too). Once your puppy is 6 months old, he/she is classed as an adult and will need worming every six months thereafter.
Flea, Tick & Lungworm Treatments
We recommend treating puppies with monthly flea/tick and lungworm treatment (this is one product) every month in their first year. Thereafter, it depends on their lifestyle and health. There are some dogs whom we recommend continuing monthly treatments. There is also some concern now that treating monthly is perhaps too much for our dogs, but also for the products’ environmental impact. So, we have launched our new GREEN pet club, whereby dogs are flea-treated every other month as a compromise. This is a new project, but the early signs are very encouraging – we have had no increase in the number of parasite-related illnesses with this protocol.
Neutering
Male dogs — he can be surgically castrated from 6 months old in small dogs and from 12 months old in larger dogs (>20kgs). There is a debate about neutering to be had (and we’re happy to discuss with you), but in general, if you know you are not going to breed from him, then castration is a good idea — it prevents unwanted pregnancies, reduces overexcitability, can reduce aggression and reduces the risk of some cancers. The main con is that post castration, some dogs put on excessive weight due to the hormonal changes that have occurred. There is also the option for a ‘chemical castration’ – this is an injection, so it saves the need for surgery, but only lasts for between 6 and 12 months, so it needs repeating. Again, we’re very happy to discuss this with you.
Neutering female dogs — she can be speyed at 6 months old, or 2 months after a season has finished (to allow the hormones to settle). Again, if you know that you do not want to breed from your bitch then we would recommend spaying. It prevents unwanted pregnancies, nasty infections in later life, and reduces the risk of some cancers too.
Again, the main side effect is weight gain, which needs to be closely monitored for a year postoperatively. In female dogs, neutering is a more significant procedure as we must go into her abdomen to remove her uterus. This means that strict rest is required for a couple of weeks afterwards, whilst everything heals up. Again, a buster collar will be needed and some painkillers. We will check her twice in the week after the op.
Nails
Lots of puppy owners worry about their puppies’ nails. Often, they are very sharp, but it is rare that they are too long and require trimming. The nail does have a blood supply, which bleeds if cut through, so caution is required. We are more than happy to examine his/her nails for you but are unlikely to trim them down for this reason. We find the best nail file is to walk on pavements, which wears the sharp ends down painlessly.
Feeding
Most puppies would be on 3-4 meals a day initially, which comes down to 1 or 2 a day by six months old. Dry food is best for teeth. Treats should be kept to a minimum and used only if earned e.g. for obedience. It is also worth starting brushing your dog’s teeth when young – you need doggie toothpaste, but a normal toothbrush is fine, once a day after eating is ideal.
Toilet Training
Toilet training can be a messy business – perseverance is the key! The first step is to have a puppy pad or an old towel by the back door. When it looks as though he is about to go to the toilet, lift him up and put him onto the pad or take him outside. Every time he goes to the toilet outside, give him praise, never punish him for
going inside – he often won’t know what he’s done, and this leads to anxiety. Some owners can get their pup to toilet on demand which is very useful! They do this by saying the same word each time they go, so toileting is associated with this word.
Insurance
We recommend pet insurance. The capabilities of vets are now much higher, but with this comes increased costs too. If you get an insurance policy set up whilst your puppy is young it will run in the background, and you won’t think about it until the day it is needed. We find that owners’ stress levels are much less when their pet is ill if they have pet insurance, it means that there is one less thing to worry about. Occasionally pets in our care have very serious problems that can only be treated by a specialist, in these occasions the bill can become very high, so insurance becomes extremely important. As with all insurance these days there is a large choice online! You need to sit down and consider very carefully what you need.
Unfortunately, the cheaper policies are cheap for a reason and often come with a catch: you need to read the small print. We recommend ensuring that your policy limit per condition is a minimum of £6,000. £10,000 + if possible – I’m aware this sounds a bit mad, but this means you’re well covered if a specialist is required.
Consider if you want a “lifelong” policy or not. This means that if your pet got an ongoing condition, e.g. diabetes, that needs lifelong treatment, they would be covered forever.
Lots of policies only cover for one year, which is fine for lots of things (e.g. a broken leg) but won’t be for other problems. You need to do your research and find a policy that is right for you. Give us a call if you need some help.
Kittens
Vaccinations
Kittens require vaccinations at 9 and 12 weeks old. Vaccines are vital to protect our kittens from fatal viral diseases. The vaccines we use are very safe and we have never encountered any problems with them.
Vaccination is a big topic, and you can find more information right here on our website.
Microchipping
It is now law to microchip your cat by the time they are 20 weeks old – your kitten may have been microchipped already, but if not, we can do it for you.
Worming
Worming is required at 8, 10 and 12 weeks old. Then at 4, 5 and 6 months old. As your kitten grows up he/she will grow at an unpredictable rate so we recommend weighing them at each of these milestones (there is no extra cost for this; it provides a good opportunity to get them into the practice and get used to it, good chance for our staff to play with them too).
Once your kitten is 6 months old he/she is classed as an adult and will need worming every three to six months thereafter, depending on lifestyle.
Flea Treatment
Some cats need flea treatment monthly, and some we now recommend to have treatment every other month. This depends on your cats’ lifestyle and health. We have two pet clubs available – one ‘standard’ for monthly flea treatment and one ‘GREEN’ for every other month – this is cheaper and better for the environment. We’ll discuss which is best for your cat.
If your cat joins either of our pet clubs (standard or GREEN) they will receive all their vaccinations, wormers and flea medication at a significantly reduced cost, plus that cost is spread out monthly rather than being payable
in lump sums. Find out more info and register your interest here.
Neutering
We highly recommend neutering your cat unless you are considering breeding. Neutered male cats are more placid, get into less fights with other cats and do less spraying in the house. Female cats are amazingly fertile and unwanted kittens are a real possibility unless you have her neutered. Both sexes can be neutered from six months old. You leave them with us in the morning and collect them that evening. The procedure is performed under a general anaesthetic but is well tolerated and they recover very quickly.
Letting Your Kitten Outside
There are no hard and fast rules about this, but many people wait until their kitten has been neutered and has a microchip before letting them out. It is wise to go out with them for the first few weeks, do it just before feeding time so you can feed him/her when you back in, as a reward and a reminder of where home is!
Nails
Lots of kittens have very sharp nails. Often there is not actually anything for us to be able to trim back but of course we’re always happy to have a look! The best bet is to get some cat scratching posts to encourage them to have some fun and file their nails back the same time.
Feeding
If your kitten is happy on dry food, then it is best to keep him/her on dry food forever. Although this never looks particularly appetising to us humans, a good dry, complete food gives your cat all he/she need, but crucially is so much better for their teeth than wet food in the long run.
If he/she won’t eat dry on its own, we recommend using as little wet as possible mixed in to make it more palatable.
Insurance
We certainly recommend pet insurance. The capabilities of vets are now much higher but with this comes increased costs too. If you get an insurance policy set up whilst your kitten is young, it will run in the background and you won’t think about it until the day it is needed.
We find that owners stress levels are much lower when their pet is ill if they have pet insurance, which means that there is one less thing to worry about. Occasionally, pets in our care have very serious problems that can only be treated by a specialist; in these occasions the bill can be significant (between £5,000 and 10,000 is now not unusual…)
As with all insurance these days there is a large choice online! You need to sit down and consider very carefully what you need.
Unfortunately, the cheaper policies are cheap for a reason and often come with a catch, you need to read the small print. We recommend ensuring that your policy limit per condition is at least £6,000 (ideally £10,000). This means you’re well covered if a specialist is required.
Consider if you want a “lifelong” policy or not, this means that if your pet got an ongoing condition, e.g. diabetes, that needs lifelong treatment they would be covered forever. Lots of policies only cover for one year, which is fine for lots of things (e.g. a broken leg) but won’t be for other problems.
You need to do your research and find a policy that is right for you.